Heatstroke in pets
Heatstroke in animals is a killer and can happen frighteningly fast.
Unlike humans, dogs don’t cool off by sweating through their skin. The
only way they can lower their body temperature is to pant, and to sweat a
little through their paws. To pant effectively, they rely on the air around
them being cooler than their own temperature; this will allow the heat in
their moist breath to dissipate and be removed into the environment. They
also rely on the environment being a little dry. High humidity makes it
harder for them to cool off.
Dogs suffer heatstroke when their internal body temperature gets much
too high (an example is when severe seizures occur or the pet over
exercises); when the external temperature is too high and the dog cannot
seek shade; and when there is no access to water and shade on a very hot
day.
Here are a few guidelines to keep your pet cool as temperatures
rise:
Vehicles: Don’t leave your pet in the car. Parked vehicles become like
ovens and it takes only a few minutes for an animal to die of
heatstroke.
Shade: Make sure there are plenty of all-day shade areas for your animal
at home. Keep in mind that a shaded spot in the morning might become baking
hot at midday.
Don’t walk: Avoid walking your dogs during the hottest part of the day.
Your dogs may overheat and burn their paws on hot surfaces.
Groom: Brush loose hair from your pets regularly, especially those with
extra thick coats such as Labradors and Huskies. Consider clipping them at
the beginning of summer.
Water: If you have birds, place a shallow bowl of cool water on the cage
floor big enough for them to bathe in. If their cage is outside during the
day, make sure it is in a spot that is shaded all day.
Ice: ‘Pocket’ pets such as guinea pigs are extremely sensitive to heat,
and can die just lying in their cages on a hot day. It is therefore a good
idea to place a refreezable ice block over one section of their cage. The
cool air will sink down and lower the temperature of the cage.
Alternatively, providing them with a frozen water bottle to lie against on
hot days, can make a big difference to their core body temperature.
The symptoms of heatstroke range from panting and salivating through to
vomiting, diarrhoea, seizures and coma. If you suspect your pet is
suffering from heatstroke, spray the animal with cold water and seek
veterinary assistance as soon as possible.
The Fight Against Fleas
Fleas can be a bother all year long, but over summer, the problem can
dramatically escalate. The warmth of summer enables fleas to complete their
reproductive cycle at a faster rate, often resulting in a population
explosion. Let’s find out more about these pesky parasites.
The life cycle of the flea comprises four stages:
Eggs: Flea eggs are pearly white and about ½ mm (too small to see
without magnification). Fleas lay their eggs either on your pet (where they
may drop off) or deposit their eggs in the immediate surroundings (such as
carpeting). The eggs hatch into larvae in one to ten days, depending on the
temperature. The female may lay several hundred eggs during the course of
her life.
Larva: Flea larvae are slender and approximately 2-5mm in length. They
survive by ingesting dried blood, adult flea faeces and other organic
matter. Moisture is essential for their survival at this stage, so they
avoid direct sunlight. After five to eleven days, the mature larvae pupate
by producing a silk-like cocoon in which the pupa resides.
Pupa: Inside the cocoon, pupae are resistant to insecticides applied to
their environment. Pupae can lie dormant for months, but in warm, humid
conditions, pupae hatch into adult fleas in about five to ten days.
Adult: When the adult flea emerges, it immediately seeks a host, as it
must ingest a blood meal within a few days in order to survive. Following
its first meal, the female flea starts to produce eggs within 36 to 48
hours. Egg production can continue for as long as 100 days.
It takes approximately three weeks for a flea egg to develop into an
adult flea. However, the speed of the flea life cycle will depend on the
temperature and the presence of a food source (your pet’s blood!)
Fleas affect our pets in many different ways. Some animals can carry a
large flea burden with no ill effects. Others may be allergic to the saliva
from a flea bite and respond to just a single flea with excessive itching
and discomfort. Pets suffering from fleas often have associated hair loss
and secondary dermatitis.
Flea control
Treating for fleas involves more than just getting rid of the fleas on
the animal. The fleas on the animal only make up about 5% of the total
flea life cycle population, the remaining 95% being in the environment.
Therefore, treating your pets and their living areas thoroughly and at the
same time is vital, otherwise some fleas may survive and re-infect your
pet.
In the past, topical insecticide sprays, dips and powders were popular
forms of treatment. However, the effect was only temporary. Some stages of
the flea’s life can last for months and larvae are protected inside their
cocoon against insecticides. To have excellent flea control, use an
integrated program which gets rid of environmental life cycle stages as
well as using products on the pet which kill and sterilise fleas.
It is best to consult your veterinarian as to the best flea control and
prevention for your pet. The choice of flea control should depend on your
pet’s lifestyle and potential for exposure.
10 Flea Fighting Tips
The best medicine is prevention, so follow this holistic approach to
keep fleas at bay:
Check daily with a flea comb. (Fleas caught in the comb can be disposed
of by dunking the comb in a bowl of warm, soapy water.)
Look for any telltale shiny black specs that turn reddish-brown on a
damp white sheet of paper, indicating flea droppings of ingested blood.
Vacuum all areas in the house thoroughly. (The vibrations will also
encourage life-cycle stages to emerge.)
Steam clean, where possible.
Use cotton sheets to cover areas where your pet likes to sleep, such as
sofas, carpets and floor surfaces with deep crevices where the larvae can
hide and mature.
Wash your pet’s bedding every week, in at least a 60°C cycle.
Air your pet’s bed in the sun regularly.
If your house is already infested with fleas, use aerosols and foggers,
following manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
Clean your backyard, sweeping up all dead leaves and debris, where fleas
may hide and flourish.
Choose your pet’s friends carefully. Don’t allow animals with fleas onto
your property.
A Bone of Contention
Most pet owners are probably aware of the “great bone debate” – should
we or shouldn’t we feed our pets bones. It is very difficult to come to a
conclusion without considering the pros and cons of a diet containing
bones.
The case for bones:
Bones provide stimulation and environmental enrichment. Many suburban
dogs are left alone for long hours so a bone to gnaw on, bury and dig up
can help fill in this lonely time. Keeping a pet busy gnawing a bone may
help prevent other undesirable behaviours such as barking and chewing
furniture.
Bones can help keep teeth clean through their excellent abrasive
action.
Some believe that bones provide a more natural form of nutrition for
dogs and cats.
The case against bones:
Although bones do help keep teeth clean and free from plaque, constant
gnawing can cause significant wear and may even fracture teeth.
The inside of large bones contains marrow, which has a high fat content.
A diet high in fat can predispose pets to obesity and serious medical
conditions such as pancreatitis.
Small fragments of bone can compact as they pass through the intestines
and form a “boney brick” of faeces that is difficult and painful to
pass.
Bones can become wedged across the roof of the mouth or around the
teeth. Large bone fragments and spiky bones (such as kangaroo tails and
T-bones) can also get lodged in the digestive tract. Avoid cooked bones as
they are softer and therefore larger chunks of bone can be broken off and
consumed.
Bones are a common source of conflict in multiple dog households. Many
a friendly doggy relationship has been shattered over a bone war.
Many dogs like to bury their bone. This can be a nuisance for the more
green-fingered dog owner. Digging the bone back up can be an even bigger
problem as not only is there a hole in the garden to contend with but also
a smelly rotting bone. Bones in this state can cause diarrhoea and smelly
breath.
Before feeding a pet bones, always consult your veterinarian about their
suitability for your pet, especially if they have had a history of gut
problems. Never feed cooked bones and always separate or supervise bone
feeds in a multiple dog household.
Poisonous Plants
Some cats like to nibble on pot plants – but this could be dangerous.
If you see your cat eating your greenery, you should check whether the
plant is toxic. For example, several types of lilies can be deadly to
cats.
The many varieties of ornamental lilies (for example, the Easter Lily
and Tiger Lily) are severely toxic to cats. All parts of the lily are
poisonous and as little as two to three leaves can kill a cat.
Symptoms of poisoning range from seizures and foaming at the mouth to
vomiting and coma. These symptoms can then progress to complete renal
failure.
Early and aggressive treatment is required to prevent this catastrophic
chain of events. Don’t wait for symptoms to start. Take the cat
immediately to your local veterinarian if you suspect it has eaten a toxic
substance.
Who is looking after your pet this holiday?
Many of us make plans to go away on a summer holiday during the festive
season. Flights and accommodation are booked months in advance, and plans
are made to catch up with family and friends. But have you given thought to
who will be looking after your pets when you are away on holiday?
Knowing that your pet is safe and secure, and having proper contingency
plans in place will give you peace of mind and help you to relax and enjoy
your holiday.
If leaving your pet in a boarding establishment, visit the premises and
make sure you feel comfortable with the setup. Book early, as most good
boarding establishments are filled to capacity over summer.
Provide the boarding establishment or carer with your holiday itinerary,
your contact details, your vet’s details and also your expectations should
an emergency occur. For example, if your pet is bitten by a snake or
involved in a road accident, is there a financial cap on treatment costs?
Or would you prefer a ‘spare-no-expense-approach’?
Where possible, get the boarding establishment or carer to feed your pet
its usual diet. Sudden changes to diet frequently cause gastric ulcers.
Carers should be made familiar with your pet’s routine. For example, let
the carer know if you do not allow your pet to sleep on furniture in your
house.
Ensure that your pet’s vaccinations are up to date.
If your pet is on medication, make sure there are sufficient supplies
for the duration of the holiday.
Now all you need to do is relax and enjoy your holiday!
Rib Ticklers
What do you call a very old ant?
An antique
What is even smarter than a talking bird?
A spelling bee
Why shouldn’t you loan books to a dog?
It will make them dog-eared
What do you call a cat that can jump far?
A catapult
